Hachijojima Island

A one-hour flight south of Tokyo, Hachijojima feels far removed from the city. Here, the soundtrack is waves crashing on volcanic cliffs and trees swaying in the wind.

Khaled begins his day at Kukansha in Long Beach 1983, a cabin-like spot hidden among the trees, where hand poured coffee pairs perfectly with kakigori, Japanese shaved ice. At Gelateria 365, fresh Jersey milk from free roaming cows becomes creamy gelato flavored with sea salt and local lemon.

Later, at Hachijo-mingei Yamashita, he learns to weave Kihachijo silk, a craft that has been passed down for centuries using dyes made from native plants. “Perfection isn’t the point,” Khaled says. “Presence is.”

The day continues with shochu tasting at Sakashita Shuzo, where one man, Okiyama-san, mills and bottles each batch by hand. Dinner follows at Ryozanpaku, a humble izakaya where specialties like shimazushi, kusaya, and ashitaba tempura capture the island’s flavours.

Tama

Just an hour from downtown, Tokyo transforms into valleys, rivers, and small mountain towns.

In Okutama, Khaled follows a cold stream to a hidden wasabi farm. Two brothers are rebuilding it stone by stone after a typhoon, growing wasabi the way it used to be: sharp, pure, and rooted in silence.

In Hachioji, Khaled plants rice at Tokyo Hachioji Craft Sake Brewery before tasting the crisp sake made from it. “When you drink it, you taste the soil, the water, and the effort,” he reflects.

Lunch is a steaming bowl of ramen at Chukasoba Goemon, a ten seat shop serving broth perfected since 1996. Topped with crunchy raw onions, a Hachioji signature, it’s simple and unforgettable.

Later in Ome, he dips cloth into indigo vats at Indigo Dyeing Studio Kosen, where artisans have created the deep “Japan Blue” for centuries. The dye even returns to the soil to nourish vegetables.

The evening ends at Ukai Toriyama, a hidden village of traditional houses surrounded by centuries old gardens. Charcoal roasted chicken and wagyu beef are served in open air rooms where smoke drifts through the trees.

Central Tokyo

Back in the city, Khaled stays at LYURO Tokyo Kiyosumi by THE SHARE HOTELS, a hotel that blends into the neighbourhood with art on the walls and locals stopping by for coffee. He rents a bike from TokyoBike Tokyo and rides along the Sumida River, leaving the skyline behind.

At Glass-Lab co.,ltd., he discovers Shiina Kiriko, a modern take on Edo Kiriko cut glass. Each hand carved piece shimmers like a memory you can hold.

Lunch at MOSS CROSS TOKYO Shibuya highlights the philosophy of Wakon-Yosai, blending Japanese soul with Western technique. Later, the grandeur of the State Guest House, Akasaka Palace, reveals Tokyo’s regal side.

The journey ends with a Nihonbashi river cruise, drifting past bridges older than many cities. “I thought I knew Tokyo,” Khaled says. “But Tokyo had other plans.”