Get to know Edo
The dawn of the 17th century—the era of castles, kabuki theatre and pleasure gardens—ushered in a period of peace and prosperity after a century of civil war. Breaking with tradition, Edo—a small town in what is now central Tokyo—was then chosen as capital over Kyoto, the longtime imperial capital. Within decades, Edo grew to become the largest city in the world, besting London with a population of over one million.
Edo lasted until the mid-19th century, when the young emperor Meiji became the new head of state. This marked a key moment in Japanese history, known as the Meiji Restoration, which ushered in the namesake period. In another break with tradition, the imperial household left Kyoto for Edo, which henceforth became known as the 'eastern capital', or Tokyo.
A poetic garden for the ages
Another spot where you might find local residents breathing modern life into Tokyo's centuries-old heritage is Rikugien, a classic stroll-style 'daimyo garden', which is characterised by meandering paths centered around large ponds.
Daimyo were the lords of the feudal era who, in peace time, could devote themselves to more aesthetic pursuits; during the Edo period, there were reportedly up to a thousand such gardens. But they served practical purposes too, often used as a meeting place for diplomatic gatherings, as well as for agriculture.
Thanks to its literary-minded artistic design, Rikugien is a particular favourite among garden connoisseurs. Throughout the gardens are scenes in miniature: called "Rikugien 88 borders", 88 waka poem-related landscapes are scattered around the park, using natural elements to reflect the world of waka poetry. Within, there are also some vintage teahouses to admire, as well as a more contemporary one that serves matcha and sweets along with views of the garden's central pond.
A lush pocket of green which has stood for centuries, Rikugien offers visitors a chance to step back in time, enjoying seasonal beauty and traditional garden design just like the samurai of old Edo.
A spiritual blend of old and new
When it comes to historic architecture in Tokyo, few examples are more unique than the Buddhist temple Tsukiji Hongwanji (whose head temple is Nishi Hongwanji in Kyoto). While it was founded in the early 17th century, the current structure dates to the 1930s. In the spirit of this more cosmopolitan age, the design incorporates a rich mix of influences from India and other Asian countries. It's a visual standout amid Tokyo's cityscape, and a top attraction travellers should not miss out on while visiting the shops and stalls in the Tsukiji Outer Market.
Locals, however, find much to love in the temple's cafe, whose modern façade is contrastingly contemporary with floor-to-ceiling windows and terrace seating that offers panoramic views of the temple’s main hall. Particularly popular, with good reason, is the signature '18-item breakfast', which features a wide variety of items such as rolled Japanese omelettes and rice gruel. Servings are limited and only available until 10:30am, however, so one should make sure to book ahead using the online reservation system (in Japanese)—or visit in the afternoon for teatime, where a meal and Japanese sweets are on the menu in place of breakfast.
A hands-on taste of old Edo
Perhaps no Japanese dish is more famous than sushi, which is defined by its vinegar-seasoned rice and (usually) seafood toppings. It comes in many shapes and forms, though perhaps none more iconic than the bite-sized, made-as-you-watch nigiri-sushi. Also called Edo-mae sushi, this style originated in Edo, where it was sold at stalls and eaten on the spot—nascent fast-food for the merchants and artisans of the era. It stands in contrast to Kansai-style sushi or oshizushi, which is pressed sushi with pickled fish that can take days to prepare.
While Tokyo has countless sushi counters where visitors can sample this truly local dish, there are also opportunities to delve deeper—by getting hands on and learning how to make it yourself. At Tama Sushi, through the Edomae Sushi Nigiri experience, one can eat their way through history, by learning not only how to handle the fish and rice, but also more about the history and culture of Edo-style sushi.
Tradition meets modernity in Harajuku
Communal bathhouses, called sento, are another Tokyo tradition that date to the Edo period. While no longer essential—as homes of the modern era have their own baths—they are far from obsolete. In fact, they are currently undergoing a revival as a younger generation of Tokyoites are leaning into this aspect of traditional culture. Besides, nowadays, a sento is more than just a place to bath; most facilities have multiple tubs with different features, while some also have saunas and relaxation rooms.
Experience this age-old tradition in Tokyo's trendiest neighbourhood at Kosugiyu Harajuku, where the highlight is the skin-silkening milk bath. The fresh-faced facility which opened in 2024, features murals of Mt Fuji on the walls, and is located in Tokyu Plaza Harajuku "Harakado", a striking mall with fashion boutiques, cafes, an art gallery, a magazine library with over 3,000 titles to browse from, and more. Capped with a vertical rooftop garden terrace, the welcome addition to Harajuku is rejuvenating the area and brimming with creative energy, making it a true delight for travellers with varying interests.
Kosugiyu Harajuku opens its doors early, from 7am to 11pm, allowing a flexible visit window for when you want to unwind after a long day of touring. While locals tend to bring their own supplies, including towels, you can also rent them at the counter at the tattoo-friendly bathhhouse.
These vibrant mixes of old and new are a big part of Tokyo’s allure, and visitors can expect to immerse themselves in the city’s rich layers of history and culture. In fact, one can journey through the ages, and sample the urban culture of past eras and age-old traditions re-invented for the present one—all without needing to leave the capital.
