The Tokyo you nearly missed: A local’s personal two-week plan for soul-searchers | WELNESS | Article

The Tokyo you nearly missed: A local's personal two-week plan for soul-searchers

TOKYO FOR THE SOULA Tokyo-based writer of 20 years, takes you away from the stresses of the world and into a fortnight of the city's lesser-known highlights, including cool galleries, mountain trails and scenic isles.

Produced by

From trendsetting urban complexes to tranquil gardens and historic shrines, Tokyo's blend of contemporary and traditional experiences has long made for an unforgettable trip. But that's just the tip of the iceberg for soul-searching travellers seeking a more immersive journey. Heading off the beaten path to the natural surrounds of western Tokyo or the city's pristine island chains, you'll find a whole new side of Tokyo, with opportunities for hiking, diving and a host of other outdoor activities. Even in the city centre, there are endless moments that might make you rethink your definition of Tokyo.

Combining the new, old, natural and adventurous, here are my insider ideas for an enriching fortnight in Tokyo that may nurture your soul.

Tokyo Sky Tree tower in Asakusa district, Tokyo.

Days 1 to 3: Discover Tokyo's traditions

To kick off your Tokyo journey, you can't go wrong with a few days exploring Tokyo's traditional sides. Besides big-ticket historic attractions such as Meiji Jingu Shrine, Senso-ji Temple and the Imperial Palace – all well worth a visit – there are plenty of lesser-known sites and experiences to discover.

Nezu Shrine in the old Yanesen area is one of my favourites, with its photogenic row of red torii gateways and a small hillside covered with azaleas that bloom pink, white, purple and blue in April. From there, you could then spend the rest of the day strolling around other Yanesen sights, such as the old-fashioned Yanaka Ginza shopping street or even walk on to the more famous Ueno district for its excellent museums and lively street market.

On the radar of even fewer travellers is Shibamata, a charming retro neighbourhood in the residential northeast of Tokyo. An afternoon here could take in Taishakuten, a temple known for its ornamental garden and intricate wooden carvings that depict the life and teachings of Buddha.

Just as memorable is the nearby Yamamoto-tei, a lovely example of a plush 1920s manor, mixing traditional Japanese and European interiors with a pretty stroll garden, plus a tatami mat room where you can stop for green tea and sweets. If you like snacking as much as I do, don't forget to wander Shibamata's old main street, Taishakuten Sando. The sweet and sticky dango dumplings, dorayaki pancakes and savoury senbei crackers here are all wonderful.

Yamamoto-tei is a treasured tea house.

Yamamoto-tei is a treasured tea house.

Sticky dango dumplings, made from mochiko (rice flour).

Beyond sightseeing, there are also plenty of hands-on activities to try in Tokyo. To choose just one, I'd opt for a traditional Edo-Kiriko glassware workshop. Crafted in Tokyo since the 1800s, Edo-Kiriko features patterns cut into clear or coloured glassware, such as tumblers and sake glasses. At Sokichi, near Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, you can do a 90-minute workshop in English, cutting glassware to take home as your very own souvenir. You could round out the day by strolling around Asakusa and the magnificent Senso-ji Temple.

Edo-kiriko glassware features intricate hand-carved patterns.

Days 4 to 6: Sample a slice of modern Tokyo

Of course, one of Tokyo's defining characteristics is how new and old sit so effortlessly side by side. So, as well as immersing yourself in the capital's traditions, you really ought to spend a few days exploring its contemporary side.

In fashionable Roppongi, you could easily while away a day gallery-hopping between leading venues such as the skyscraper-topping Mori Art Museum and the National Art Centre, plus the wonderful 21_21 Design Sight. Set in the grounds of the sleek Tokyo Midtown complex, the latter is a design museum created by renowned architect Tadao Ando and fashion designer Issey Miyake, offering fascinating insights into the creative processes behind Japan's contemporary design trends.

21_21 Design Sight Museum, dedicated to the world of design. Image credit: Masaya Yoshimura.

When Midtown was built in 2007, it was the latest in a now long line of trendsetting, multi-use developments combining galleries, hotels, boutiques, restaurants and more. If you head to lively Shinjuku, you can see the most recent of Tokyo's groundbreaking urban complexes, Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, a 48-storey building that's home to hip hotels and restaurants as well as a theatre, cinema, live music venue and a cool collection of contemporary art spread around the public spaces. You can take a refreshing stroll through Gyoen National Garden, and then knock back a few drinks in the Golden Gai bar area.

Tokyo Kabukicho Tower offers futurisitic cinemas, hotels, restaurants, an arcade, and more.

But don't be afraid to explore off the beaten path, too – you never know what stylish or contemporary enclave you'll stumble upon. Just take the under-the-radar Tennoz Isle as an example, an emerging art hub in large part thanks to the Terrada Art Complex, which is a sprawling collection of influential galleries that between them have multiple expressions of contemporary creativity covered. You could also explore the nearby Odaiba neighbourhood, uncovering the port city's unique attractions, including the futuristic Miraikan museum and Joypolis indoor amusement park.

Days 7 to 9: Embark on outdoor adventures in Western Tokyo

Moving away from the centre of the city and into western Tokyo's Tama area, there's a whole new side of Tokyo to explore – deep in well-preserved nature that many wouldn't think possible in a mega city such as Tokyo.

On full-day trips, I've taken plenty of visiting friends on a hike up Mount Takao, a 599-metre peak just an hour by train from central Tokyo. From the trailhead near Takaosanguchi Station, it only takes 90 minutes to reach the top (less if you take the cable car halfway up) and there's a choice of trails that visit mountain streams, forests and even a small waterfall.

Hiking up Mount Takao.

Just as good is the traditional Yakuo-in Temple near the summit and, on clear days, the views out west to Mount Fuji from Takao's peak. Back down near the station, you can reward yourself with a post-hike craft beer and bite to eat at the laidback Takao Mountain House.

In the valleys and peaks of Okutama, another day could be spent trying Trekkling Tours' guided cycling adventures. Run in English, these trips feature cycling, but also (depending on the tour) opportunities to try river swimming or even see how wasabi is grown. With the option of using e-bikes, you don't have to be super fit to take part. And like Takao, Okutama also has good after-exercise refreshment, with places such as the taproom of microbrewery Vertere, where the open-air terrace is ideal for enjoying a hoppy ale. With another day to spare, take to the Tama River with Big Smile Rafting. Their rafting trips combine white-water thrills with stunning scenery and the chance to swim, splash, and rock dive in the river.

Cycle through stunning scenery. Image credit: Trekkling Tours.

Days 10 to 14: Experience island life, Tokyo style

If you're surprised by the Tama area being part of Tokyo, wait until you see the islands of Tokyo. Stretching south of the mainland, they offer a truly different side of Tokyo.

A good starting point is to board a high-speed jet ferry for a day trip to the largest and nearest of the islands, Izu Oshima, where the highlights include hiking around the crater of Mount Mihara and coastal bike rides. From Tokyo's Takeshiba ferry terminal, you could then take a longer ferry 180km to volcanic Miyakejima Island for a couple of days of birdwatching, swimming, hiking and other outdoor activities, before getting another ferry 115km further south to Hachijojima. With a night or two here, you can slowly soak up island life and enjoy hopping between Hachijojima's collection of open-air hot-spring baths. For something more active, the island is also a brilliant location for snorkelling or diving with sea turtles.

Snorkle or dive in Hachijojima, perhaps even with sea turtles.

If you want to stay in Tokyo longer, there's always the option of an epic bonus island to the subtropical Ogasawara Islands. Located 1,000km south of the mainland, these remote islands are only reached by a weekly 24-hour ferry ride (twice weekly in summer), so with travel time included you'll need to schedule at least five days for the trip. That effort will be rewarded with opportunities to hike, swim, dive and take in the vast diversity of flora, fauna and wildlife that has given Ogasawara the nickname "Galapagos of the Orient" – all still in Tokyo.

Ogasawara Islands, also known as “Galapagos of the Orient”.

Add Ogasawara to the diving, hiking and cycling possible in Tama and the Izu Islands, not to forget all the hidden gems in central Tokyo, and there's far more to Tokyo than initially meets the eye. Even after 20 years here, it's a city that never stops surprising me.